Salt pool sparkle1/14/2024 ![]() ![]() How much shock is needed to open a pool depends on the condition of the water. Now that you have balanced water, added stain and clarifier chemicals and filtered the water, you can finally shock the pool! In addition, chlorine has much more power or efficacy at lower pH levels, so you can use less. Minerals, metals and dirt often mix and deposit as stains or scale during shocking, when pool water is not balanced. And filtering overnight before shocking greatly reduces the chlorine demand.Įqually important is to balance the water first, before shocking a pool. Pool shock destroys algaecide polymer chains and interferes with Stain & Scale and Clarifier chemicals, which need some time to work. Step 4 – Shock the Pool! Many people shock the pool first, or add all of the spring start-up chemicals all at once, which is incorrect, in both cases. Run your filter 24/7 if possible, for the first few days after opening the pool from its winter slumber.īefore adding your pool opening chemicals, test the water again to be sure your adjustments hit the mark, and all water balance levels are correct, preferably on the lower end of the ranges. Step 3 - Filter the Pool! Run the filter overnight or for 6-8 hours to distribute water balance chemicals, and then backwash or clean the filter as needed, and empty the pump and skimmer baskets. ![]() ![]() Follow up with a good pool clarifier, following label dosage information, to help your filter remove small suspended particles. Step 2 - Add Stain & Scale and Clarifier: Before you shock the pool, which can disrupt other pool start up chemicals, add a Stain & Scale chemical to prevent staining by keeping minerals and metals locked tightly in solution. The ranges shown here are suitable for any pool surface or any type of pool sanitizer used.Īdjusting to the lower end of these ranges is best under most circumstances. of Cyanuric Acid will increase CYA by 10 ppm in 10,000 gallons of water, and one pouch of Bio-Active can reduce CYA levels by up to 50%.įor the most accurate pool water testing, we recommend a titration test kit – the Taylor K-2005 is the same test kit used by pool stores. To adjust Cyanuric Acid: Add Cyanuric Acid (also called Conditioner or Stabilizer) to raise CYA levels, and when too high, use Bio-Active cyanuric acid reducer. of pH Up will increase pH by 1 decimal point, in 10,000 gallons of water. of pH Down will decrease pH by 1 decimal point, in 10,000 gallons of water, and 1/4 lb. To adjust pH: Add pH Increaser to raise pH levels and when too high, use pH reducer. of pH Down will reduce alkalinity by 10 ppm in 10,000 gallons of water. of Alkalinity Up will increase alkalinity by 10 ppm in 10,000 gallons of water, and 1 lb. To adjust Alkalinity: Add Alkalinity Increaser to raise total alkalinity levels and when too high, use pH Reducer. ![]() of Calcium Up will increase hardness by 10 ppm in 10,000 gallons of water. To adjust Calcium Hardness: Add Calcium Increaser to raise water hardness levels, and when too high, dilute with softer, fresh water. Put away your start-up kit, and pull out your test kit – verify that your pool chemical levels are within these ranges: Step 1 - Water Balance First! Before adding any of your spring start up chemicals, it’s important to test and adjust all water balance parameters, so that your pool opening chemicals work at their best, and to prevent staining and scaling during treatment. What pool opening chemicals do I need is often asked by new pool owners, and a reply often given is that it depends on what type of pool you have, and what type of pool start-up is being done. For pools that are covered and winterized, long periods of stagnation can affect your water balance, and by the time the pool cover comes off, winter algaecides and floaters are depleted. ![]()
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